GOOD AS GOLD

For the debut of Harlan Goldstein’s new eatery, Gold, Prestige Hong Kong asked model, foodie and pastry chef-in-training AMANDA STRANG to put on her food reviewer hat and bring her friends along to a tasting dinner to remember

THE DRESS CODE is always the first thing on a model’s mind when it comes to going out for dinner. At Gold by Harlan Goldstein, the moment I enter, I know in my heart that this is the perfect place to show off that little black dress. For the gentlemen, of course, a smart casual look will suffice.

The earthy metallic tones of the restaurant feel very warm and chic, without any of the pretentiousness commonly associated with fine dining. Dim enough to hide my “Asian flush” from the wine, but bright enough to support a convivial atmosphere, the lighting accentuates the environment nicely.

The oval patterns on the ceiling are mesmerising, so much so that I can imagine getting caught in a trance if I stare at them for too long while my dining partner is in the bathroom…

As for the food, it’s in general heartwarming, using the best ingredients that can be found, paired with a modern touch. As lovely as the venue is, the cuisine is what Harlan Goldstein does best. For our dinner, he designed a great menu including wine pairings with each dish. I may not be a huge wine connoisseur, but each glass complements the course and is suitably soft on the palate, so as not to overpower the food. Links Concept, which designed the wine pairing, did a fantastic job.

Each dish showcases the best of Goldstein’s talent, and reminds us exactly why he’s one of Hong Kong’s most cherished chefs. His truffled mushroom flat bread is immaculate. Keeping things simple, he shaves winter black truffles on top, which, in my opinion, is how truffles should be served. The slow-cooked organic Japanese egg, potato “air” and sea urchin really hit the spot for me, and show how well Goldstein combines ingredients: an onsen egg laid on top of potato foam (potato puréed, infused into milk or cream, and squeezed out of a siphon bottle) with uni. It isn’t heavy at all. Each ingredient complements the next in a journey from cooked to raw, starting with the cooked potato on the bottom to the onsen egg – slightly raw on the outside with a semicooked yolk – to the raw uni on top. It’s the ultimate satisfaction, without the associated guilt and food coma.

The charcoal-grilled Tuscany beef has great texture and taste. The thick, syrupy balsamic sauce goes well with both the meat and the condiments, which include smoked sweet onion and rocket. A well-cooked sweet onion could be a star on its own (a famous Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris does a course just with it alone) and in this case, the scent of it was enough to get my appetite going again, always a good sign. My guess is that it’s braised so that each petal of the onion is that soft – I’d return to Gold just for that onion. A lot of chefs concentrate so much on the main character of the dish that, often, the supporting actors don’t really impress, but in this case, the entire cast stand out equally.

As a whole, I am very much impressed by the chef’s attention to detail. No unnecessary ingredients are added to increase the price, or to try too hard to impress, which shows Goldstein’s maturity as a chef and his dedication to his craft. Each item has its place in creating the perfect bite, which just goes to show that teamwork – whether it’s at a fashion show, in a restaurant or even on a plate – is the real secret ingredient in producing a showstopper.