COMPRESSED AIRES

JOE YOGERST packs in dancing and dining, shopping and sightseeing in the breathtaking capital of Argentina

UNLIKE THEIR SOUTH AMERICAN neighbours, the residents of Buenos Aires have never been big on monuments. There’s no Machu Picchu or giant Jesus perched high above a harbour, nor much in the way of any building that’s instantly recognisable as “BA.” But what the Argentine capital lacks in architecture, it more than makes up for with an ambience that places it among the world’s most spectacular cities.

Porteños, as the residents call themselves, may not be passionate about monuments, but they are zealous about other things, particularly food, music and football, and every visitor should sample all three. But the best thing about Buenos Aires is just hanging out – sitting in the sidewalk cafes and strolling the many pedestrian streets, people-watching and soaking up the tangy Latin vibe. In other words: acting like a local.

BA is all about neighbourhoods – exploring them on foot and savouring their distinct differences, so bring a good pair of walking shoes. Centro, the hustle-bustle downtown area, is dominated by the flashy Calle Florida pedestrian precinct between Plaza San Martin and Plaza de Mayo. Recoleta is the posh northern hood, home to upscale boutiques and luxury hotels. La Boca and San Telmo in the south are funky, bohemian areas where prices and dress codes tend to be much lower, but the hipster level rises through the roof. Trendier still is Palermo in the northwest. It’s the home of Argentine chic, and favourite hangout of the film and fashion crowd, football stars and polo players.

Each area has its own cultural landmarks, and among the many notable graves of sprawling Recoleta Cemetery sits the tomb of Eva “Evita” Peron. It’s still a place of pilgrimage nearly 60 years after her death, and visitors can learn more about the former first lady at the Museo Evita in Palermo (museoevita.org), located in a grand mansion that Peron helped convert into a home for single mothers. The museum features her clothing, family photos and other personal mementoes, as well as newsreel footage and contemporary videos about the life of a woman that Argentines tend to love or hate.

Vintage shopping is San Telmo’s trump card. Antique outlets and shops selling second-hand clothes colour the neighbourhood, and the celebrated Sunday afternoon flea market radiates out from the Plaza Dorrego. There’s new stuff too: dozens of shops flog cool and casual rags for guys and gals from the best of Argentina’s young and trendy designers.

No matter the district, however, when visiting Buenos Aires you can’t leave without experiencing tango in some way, shape or form. While the rest of the world thinks of tango exclusively as a dance, Argentines also cherish the melodies and lyrics of the many tango songs. The coolest place to catch tango is a traditional milonga (dance hall), where locals flock to trip the light fantastic. Many of them – such as Confiteria Ideal in the city centre (confiteriaideal.com) – offer inexpensive lessons (in English) before sessions kick off. Those looking for something more cutting-edge should try La Catedral in Almagro district, where tango morphs into the 21st century in a hip club every bit the equal of anything in London or New York.

Speaking of kicking off, football is the other thing that Argentines do so well with their feet. Boca Juniors and River Plate are BA’s landmark clubs and the breeding ground for superstars such as Diego Maradona, Carlos Tévez and Hernán Crespo. Most of the top Argentine players are now employed in Europe, but that doesn’t take away from the thrill of a game at Boca’s La Bombonera or River Plate’s Monumental stadium. Rather than wait in line, grab your seats from an authorised ticket agent like Tangol (tangol.com).

BA’s only bone fide drop-dead gorgeous building is the Teatro Colón (Columbus Theatre; teatrocolon.org.ar), a marvellous 19th-century Belle Époque-style opera house that recently reopened after a five-year renovation. World-class opera, ballet and symphonies are staples, performed in an atmosphere redolent of when Buenos Aires was the chic Paris of South America rather than the hardscrabble city of junta days. If you can’t make a performance, join a guided tour.

Eating out is a delight in Buenos Aires, though one wonders whether the Argentine vocabulary includes “vegetarian.” This is a country besotted with beef and parrillas – restaurants that specialise in cuisine de cattle in all its various forms. BA’s parrillas range from rustic gaucho-esque places with long wooden tables and macho waiters, to chic spots like La Cabrera (parrillalacabrera.com.ar), where Porteños gladly queue to sink their teeth into what many consider the city’s best steaks and sweetbreads (mollejas).

Given that something like half its population is of Italian origin, BA is also an oasis of Mediterranean cooking. Il Ballo Del Mattone (“Dance of the Brick”) in trendy Palermo Viejo serves up old-school trattoria cuisine and wacky Argentine pop art in equal measure. Pastas and breads are made fresh daily by the Italian immigrant family that runs the place. Many of the poser patrons are wannabe artists.

And when it comes to getting the head down, Buenos Aires has more hipster hotels than any other city in South America, and dozens of designer-savvy abodes reflect the stylish, modern Argentina that has emerged in recent decades. Top of the heap is the over-the-top Faena Hotel + Universe (faenahotelanduniverse.com) in a smartly refurbished waterfront area called Puerto Madero. This is accommodation à la Lady Gaga: bloodred carpets and sofas, stark white linen, high-back chairs, gilt mirrors, leather and velvet, and lots of chandeliers. Legado Mitico (legadomitico.com), meanwhile, is a chic boutique property in Palermo district that blends modern comforts and bygone BA in a unique hotel. Each of the 11 rooms is dedicated to a famous Argentine of the past, and contains photographs, artwork or mementoes relating to them. El Escritor pays homage to writer Jorge Luis Borges, El Tanguero salutes tango king Carlos Gardel, El Idealista tugs a forelock to revolutionary Che Guevara, and so on.

And finally, the city’s most venerated hotel – the Alvear Palace (alvearpalace.com) – lives up to its regal billing. It’s a beast of a building in Recoleta that opened in 1932, when Argentina was one of the world’s top dozen economies. Truth be told, it’s a bit on the stuffy side – a grand dame that’s more grandma than the grandkids these days. Still, it’s worth a peek, especially for Sunday brunch or afternoon tea in the luminous L’Orangerie restaurant.